My 1970 Formula Rebuild Project

[70formula]

Well, suspensions and steering are all back together.

We had to ream a bit of the new center link we got as the tapers were much too small; it's like they didn't drill them all the way or something.

That was fun to figure out, but all new center links, tie rods inner and outer, new idler arm, new pitman, etc.

All back on, and the car is steering again.

I got the sway bar end links, but the bushings I picked up were wrong, so got a new set coming.

Once those arrive, I should be able to get the sway bar on, put the wheels back on, and get her moving on her own power again!

To start the next tear-down project, lol.

In other news, I scored a set of fenders - inner and outer for $100 bucks today.

I was going to do the extensive metal work to get my fenders back to good, but I saw these, and yea, they aren't rusted and need minor body work instead of extensive fab and metal work.

They aren't bolted on but make the car look more complete, even hanging loosely.

I have a bunch of parts coming new core support, a new radiator, got the AC to delete the heater panel coming, and some other stuff my brain isn't recalling at the moment.

Wheels of progress are turning slowly but surely.

 

[70formula]

I am starting the process on this fender.

I'll be able to use the patch we made for the original fenders and still have less work to do on these than the others.

 

[70formula]

Well, both fenders are now mostly down to bare metal.

One will need a patch, the other just has some minor pitting.

Got the new core support on the car as well.

Fenders just hanging there, but shes coming along.

 

[70formula]

So, at this point, I am unsure if my nose will be savable, as it's missing chunks of urethane.

Still, I dont want the car to sit all winter with no hood, so my main goal right now is to get the fenders with some primer on them, get the back side rust protected of the fenders, and get them bolted back on so I can bolt the hood hinges back on, and get the hood back on.

I have been fighting the radiator support the last two days, and still not convinced I have it right; to use the new OER bushings for the core support, which are supposedly the most "factory correct," I had to remove the passenger side bumper bracket.

The core support cutout hole that the bumper bracket goes through initially seemed too small.

With the bumper bracket off, and the matching OER bushing installed, it was clear that the core support was unlevel and had a 1/2 inch drop with the driver side being lower.

We measured at the subframe/body/thinking that maybe the car was twisted; the measurements were close.

I lifted the car to one side / then at the center to unload the suspension to see if it was in the suspension, but again, those measurements looked close.

So, for now, the fix that seemed to do it made the most sense.

I used an aftermarket thicker bushing I had to lying around extra from other projects for the passenger side lower core support.

I'm not sure exactly what could cause this difference, but it seemed like adding a 1/2-inch thicker bushing made the radiator support look level. Not sure if this is showing a bigger issue or just possibly not-perfect core support open to thoughts?

I also hung the nose, but apparently, it has a bushing that goes in as well, so it's about that bushing thickness too low as well, but it looks like when that arrives, the nose can get one and see what's what with that fitment/alignment.

I've never had to align one of these cars' fenders/hood/nose/valances, but I hear it's a pretty big pain and usually ends up still with some wonky gaps.

Is that the truth?

What level of gap "perfection" is reasonable?

 

[70formula]

 

[Munkyslut]

Looking good!

You’ve made excellent progress; motivation makes a big difference when it starts to look like a car again.

As for gaps, check out the GM body manuals online; they’ll have the recommended factory repair specs.

To be honest, I’ve always gone for consistency in the gaps rather than the actual dimensions, bits time consuming & fiddly but totally is worth it?

 

[Munkyslut]

I’m sure the GM Fisher body manual for 70-81 F bodies is available online; it’s an excellent read!

 

[70formula]

I’m sure the GM Fisher body manual for 70-81 F bodies is available online; it’s an excellent read!

I have the book!

Saved my ass on the door glass adjustment for sure.

 

[70formula]

I can't seem to get the video to upload, but I had the first actual drive!

She got her new radiator in, and air bled out from it, then took her around the block and did the maiden burnout.

It definitely has some monstrous torque.

 

[Munkyslut]

That’s awesome!

Maiden burnout is an obvious priority.

 

[70formula]

Wow, been a hot minute since I posted. Im a full time college student so time got away from me over the last term. I have been collecting parts though as I have 3 months off for summer break coming up after this spring term. Goal is to to bust out over summer and get the bird "drivable to the grocery store"

New trunk pan is on route, got all new rear brakes, new gas tank, new gas sending unit, differential gaket, shackles, and debating on what leaf springs, but those are going to be here before summer as well. Also, new gas lines will be coming to. Want to get the ass end all rebuilt, new trunk pan installed, and the fuel system and braking system all restored. I also have quarter panel patches ready to go as well.

 

[Munkyslut]

Haha, it sounds like you have absolutely no free time in the foreseeable future.

We’d love to see the progress when you get around to starting on it again!

 

[70formula]

I am starting the parts collection for summer.

I have my plan of attack in my mind, and it will take roughly three months to get it done between the spring term ending and the fall term beginning.