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1981 Pontiac Turbo TA - Advice On A Motor Treatment - ASAP Please!

NOT4YOU

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First off, I would like to say hello as I am a new member here.

Hopefully, my time here will yield fruitful knowledge as this forum is for TA enthusiasts. :cool:

Now, I'll try and get straight to the point. My father owns a 1981 Pontiac Turbo TA and it's been in the family virtually forever. (since 1986?) Been babied and garaged most of it's life w/ only 77,000+ original miles but, unfortunately had to spend the last 4-5 years outside and has been under a professional car cover most of that time. She has been rarely driven all of those years (an occasional long distance trip here and there well over 25 years ago). About 20 years ago, my dad started her up and discovered it was running slightly hot and had an oil leak. Well, we got it into the shop (GM authorized dealer shop) and they said it was a leaking rear main seal and that not only the seal but basically all gaskets and seals in the car would need to be replaced...this was done.

When I drove it home from the shop it was smoking and seemed to be missing, this was not the case BEFORE bringing the car to them. (yes, it actually ran worse AFTER GM authorized service than before) I told my father he needed to immediately take the car back to them and have it fixed right but, unfortunately dad is not the confrontational type so, it remained that way for the next 20 years. Having hardly ever been started and either garaged or under the cover for the last few of those years.

Fast forward to 2023, dad's getting old and wants the car up and running reliably before he merges w/ the infinite. I do my best to accommodate him and get the car into a local shop where it sits for a couple weeks as various spurts of work get done to it. (clean gas tank, new fuel lines, rebuild carb, change oil etc.)

Anyways, shop finally calls yesterday and says she's running but she smokes, (didn't say anything about knocking or missing) says it seems to have gotten a little better since they've driven it but says in his opinion all the gaskets and seals have dried out and potentially dry-rotted from sitting idle all this time.

When I ask if there's anything that can be done am told there's 2 options.

1. Tebuild the motor (in NO WAY financially feasible right now)... or

2. Try and engine treatment which MAY sufficiently lubricate gaskets and seals and solve problem. Well, after some 2nd opinions I'm told I can try an engine treatment but, am also told to BE CAREFUL and DO SOME RESEARCH AND ASK ON SOME FORUMS for any potential advice as to selecting one as some treatments can actually HARM the engine more than help.

So finally, my question for the experienced 1980-81 301 Turbo TA owners is this: If you had to use one of these treatments to attempt to remedy this problem, which one in you folks' opinion would be most effective and safest one?

If you made it this far, I'd like to say thanks for reading and for any suggestions and help you may be able to provide. :)
 
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Seventy6er

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Personally, I would never take my TA to ANY dealership - not even my Jeep to its own service department after a few horrific discoveries of sheer incompetence the likes of which I couldn't even approve a stray dog to trust driving it post "repairs." My suggestion, if you are fortunate to have some near you, is to find local hot rod shops who consistently work on cars of this era and know what they're doing without selling you a sink you don't need.

I'm not one of any reliable expert mechanical advice, but some of what you described is what I had experienced and corrected it by reworking the vac lines and changed the timing. One major improvement was the complete elimination of ethanol-based fuels and I only feed mine ethanol-free with an octane booster - Yes, it's more expensive but worth it and she's been purring like a kitten ever since. As far as additives go, I have and still use the Lucas brands but ONLY if I have an inclination of the source of a particular issue for its application to help me postpone bigger repair projects. Until then, get some gauges and check your compression, vacuum, etc. - or, as mentioned, a professional mechanic specializing in cars like the older TAs. Good luck and let us know what the issues were, we all learn from the unknowns!
 

NOT4YOU

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Personally, I would never take my TA to ANY dealership - not even my Jeep to its own service department after a few horrific discoveries of sheer incompetence the likes of which I couldn't even approve a stray dog to trust driving it post "repairs." My suggestion, if you are fortunate to have some near you, is to find local hot rod shops who consistently work on cars of this era and know what they're doing without selling you a sink you don't need.

I'm not one of any reliable expert mechanical advice, but some of what you described is what I had experienced and corrected it by reworking the vac lines and changed the timing. One major improvement was the complete elimination of ethanol-based fuels and I only feed mine ethanol-free with an octane booster - Yes, it's more expensive but worth it and she's been purring like a kitten ever since. As far as additives go, I have and still use the Lucas brands but ONLY if I have an inclination of the source of a particular issue for its application to help me postpone bigger repair projects. Until then, get some gauges and check your compression, vacuum, etc. - or, as mentioned, a professional mechanic specializing in cars like the older TAs. Good luck and let us know what the issues were, we all learn from the unknowns!
Hi 76er, thanks for the reply!

Actually, the shop I took it to was a local hot rod shop so, I'm assuming they checked the vacuum lines and timing when they were installing the carb and getting her running.

HOWEVER, the guy that owns the place was kind of a douchebag and responded w/ condescending, rude answers to every question I asked so, I just thought it best to get her the hell off his lot before I blew my top.

Plus, they used 10W-30 when they changed the oil instead of the SAE 30W that IS CLEARLY STATED on the sticker in front of the engine bay so, I don't think these guys are too proficient in their chosen field. (but, that's ok, hard lesson learned) ....hey, at least they got it running again.

I finally picked her up yesterday and even tho she smokes a little when she gets up to temperature, it was still nice hearing that old TA roar and rumble to life when I turned the key after all these years! :cool:

As she sits right now, her idle sounds smooth and strong, she just has trouble staying running until she's warmed up and she smokes a little here and there. I think after we get the new tires and exhaust on her, I'll either take her to a lube shop to get the right oil put in her, or I'll just change it out myself.

Then I think I'll try adding some kind of high quality motor honey and see if that helps the smoking problem. I DO however like ur suggestion to use the ethanol-free gas and octane booster, I think I'll try that.

Thanks! (y)
 

Elwood

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I would check all the vacuum lines for leaks.

Spray some carb cleaner around the vacuum lines and the intake manifold.

If the idle changes, you have a vacuum leak.

Hopefully, they didn’t connect the vacuum hoses up wrong.

A big mistake is people will take some fuel line and use it to replace a vacuum line.

Fuel hoses are designed for pressure on the inside out and not for vacuum, so they can collapse inward and block the vacuum.

Always replace vacuum lines with vacuum lines.

Also, you have seals on the valve stems to help control oil, and these might have dried out and started cracking, which can cause smoking.

These can be replaced most of the time without taking the heads off if you have enough room to work on it.

Good luck with your problem
 
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